In the northern regions of Croatia the 11th of November is a festive day – St. Martins Day / Martinje – when we celebrate the new wine of this year and eat roasted goose! Around the country tastings of the new wine of the year are held at vineyards, at people at home and in pubs & restaurants.
A bit about how Martin became Saint Martin
Martin is said to be born in 316 AD in the then Roman province of upper Pannonia, which is now in Hungary. According to legend, Martin (a Roman soldier) encountered a half-naked beggar on a dark and cold night, which begged for alms. At that time Martin did not have any money on him, but felt compelled to protect the beggar against the cold. He then cut his cloak in two halves and gave one part to the beggar, and the following night, Christ appeared to Martin dressed in half his cloak. Very likely this apparition was the cause for Martin to be christened at Easter in the year 339AD when he was just 23 years old and from then on devoted his life to God. In 372 he was named bishop of Tours in nowadays France, and lived like a monk in a hut by the Loire river. In 397 he died at the age of 81 years near Tours. St. Martin is the patron saint of horse riders, soldiers, horses, geese and wine makers, on images he is depicted on horse back with half a coat and a beggar at his feet. This day is since old times celebrated, it coincides with the arrival of the first snow and hence the end of the field labours work outside, they were paid their wages and celebrated with roasted goose meat and wine.
What’s the link between St. Martin, wine and geese
On this day in many parts of Europe but also in Croatia people eat roasted goose, with bread, mlinci (kind of flat pasta made of flour, water and salt), cabbage and plenty of this years new wine!
There are some stories why the goose is associated with St. Martin
- Geese disturbed St. Martins sermons and are punished by ending up on the table
- St. Martin was to modest to be appointed Bishop and hid in a goose shed, but the noise of the geese gave him away
On the 11th of November, and never before, the first new wine of that year is served – the St. Martins wine, very similar to the French Beaujolais nouveau, but the tradition in Croatia is older. This young wine is not intended for saving a long time and should be drunk before the arrival of spring! The young wine is fresh, dry and light with a low alcohol content of about 12% and a fruity character.
On this day the ‘must’, which is considered sinful and impure, is officially turned into wine by baptism. This ceremony is performed by the bishop; maybe because st. Martin was ordained a bishop, and another person is considered the godfather of the wine. After the ceremony plenty of wine will be drunk!
It is also the last feast before the fasting of advent, that starts the 4th Sunday before Christmas.
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